A popular vacation destination for its casino-fueled luxury resorts, colorful Old City, thumping nightlight and sandy beaches, San Juan, Puerto Rico is rebuilding after the horror brought on by 2017’s catastrophic hurricane season and the damage done by Hurricanes Irma and Maria. A culinary hotspot, with chefs like Jose Enrique, Mario Pagan, Wilo Benet, and Jose Santaella setting the bar over the last 15 years, and a new generation of young chef talent, interested in sustainability, seasonality, locavorism and a commitment to the island’s farms is something that even Mother Nature can’t sideline. Though there have been some concept changes and restaurant closings since last fall, as well as a major slump in tourism, there has never been a better time to hop a cheap flight to the tropics and explore the gastronomic side of San Juan, all while helping to reset the bar on the island’s tourism in a post-Maria world. Here’s the definitive (updated) list to help guide you through.
For most, Jose Enrique Montes’ eponymous restaurant is a must-visit stop on any trip to San Juan. The young, laid-back chef’s spot, which is a no-frills joint on the perimeter of buzzy weekend hangout La Placita, dishes out the flavors of Puerto Rico with modern culinary stylings. The chef, who was the first-ever Puerto Rican nominated for a James Beard award in 2013 (and every year since!), emphasizes local ingredients and sustainability on his menus and has been at the front of the island’s locavore movement. Seasonally inspired, the hand-written board menu changes daily, but be sure to start with some addictive mero (sea bass) poppers, local butcher Pedro Alcor’s artisanal longaniza sausages, or the light, fresh crab. Simply grilled whole fish, aged meats, and vegetables often shine here, and all are executed with finesse. joseenriquepr.com
Helmed by Chef Xavier Pacheco, formerly of Miramar’s La Jaquita Baya, which was closed after the devastation of Hurricane Maria, Comedería Fonda Urbana is a traditional Puerto Rican fonda with a modern twist. Pacheco, an ardent support of the farm-to-table movement on island, offers an homage to the flavors of the island, but at more reasonable prices and an eye toward embracing Maria’s aftermath. Incorporating as much local product as possible into a new roster of recipes — think pork belly mofongo, pigeon pea hummus, and arroz con coco y chicharrón de pescado (coconut rice with fish chicharrón) — the relaxed spot is looking to bring in a regular crowd as it adapts to the island’s new realities. Open for lunch and dinner, Wednesday through Sunday. Facebook Page.
Like the many other food pockets of the world, food trucks have risen in popularity in San Juan, so it follows that food courts would hit the island soon enough. Enter Lote 23, an outdoor collection of 16 food vendors spread over four terraces in Santurce. Our only advice? Come hungry. Vendors include Puerto Rican styled bao buns from El Baoricua, Neopolitan and Roman-style pizzas from chef Raul Correa at Dorotea’s, Peruvian fare at Panka by Martin Louzao, and if you’re craving pork, head over to Pernilerīa Los Prōceres. Most recently Natalia Rivera and Luis Castillo (from 1919 and El Convento) opened a El Jangiri, a poke bowl spot. Coffee, sweets and burgers round out the experience. Cocktails are courtesy of the world-class bar mind of La Factoría. Finish strong with an ice pop from Señor Paleta. lote23.com.
Chef Raúl Correa, who oversees the food and beverage program at the boutique San Juan Water Beach Club, is an advocate for sustainability, a mentor for young chefs around the island, and an accomplished culinary talent. With emphasis on hand-picked ingredients from the island’s farming community, Correa helms Zest, the hotel’s main restaurant, which serves both creative dishes like popcorn soup with truffle butter and chicharrón and simple plates like sea bass with a green papaya compote. The space’s décor, which combines the elements—earth, wind, fire and water—is soothing, while the bar program is worth checking out. (Currently, however, in the aftermath of Maria, the restaurant is only open for breakfast with the hope of returning to dinner service by the summer.) On Sundays, the brunch at Mist Rooftop is a must-visit stop for both excellent eggs and a breathtaking ocean view. Mist is also serving dinner daily. waterbeachhotel.com/zest.
Tucked alongside the lobby of the AC Marriott on Ashford Avenue, Sobao is a typical Puerto Rican bakery, with hanging hams, mallorcas, quesitos, and excellent café con leche. In the afternoons and evenings, walk past the counter, through the “vault” into La Bodeguita, a “secret” tapas spot. A branch of the popular De Diego Ave. La Bodeguita de Manolo, some memorable dishes include the various croquetas: jamón, bacalao and morcilla; flatbreads; shrimp al ajillo; and ropa vieja. A great spot to drink Spanish wines. Facebook Page. — Kathleen Squires
An elegant dining room in the upscale Condado Vanderbilt hotel, 1919 is one of the more formal dining experiences in San Juan. With an illustrious resume that includes Lespinasse, Alain Ducasse, and Blue Hill, Chef Juan Jose Cuevas is a talent with technical chops who insists on showcasing local, seasonal ingredients on his menus, which highlight vegetables just as vocally as meat and fish. Four-course prix fixe menus are available, as well as ala carte options, but we suggest the chef’s tasting menu which dazzles and delights. 1919 also boasts an impressive wine list, with pairing options available. 1919restaurant.com.
The vibe at this Santurce restaurant is always bustling and the sexy, social crowd is well-heeled and hungry. Wall to wall diners wait on tables while nibbling on whimsical snacks like tuna lollipops, morcilla spring rolls, and malanga fritters and sipping creative cocktails at the bar. The dimly-lit dining room, which is anchored by a wall of lush tropical plants, is full of diners lapping up dishes such as a fried red snapper with herb chimichurri and tostones or pulled pork au gratin over mashed sweet plantains. One of the most jovial host chefs in town, Jose Santaella is always on hand to greet (and chat with) guests. But while this is definitely “the” spot to eat and drink, see and be seen, don’t mistake the culinary lineage of this chef, who trained with both Ferran Adriá and Eric Ripert. josesantaella.com.
The bright, pretty space that houses Sabrina is Chef Mario Ormaza’s latest and if the popularity of his Cafe Tresbe (see below) is any indication, we’re looking at another winner. Pull up a stool at the colorful, tiled bar or sit back in palm-tree lined banquette and get ready for a killer brunch. Complete with live music on Sundays, the Tropical Benedict, or eggs Benedict with mangú (mashed plantains) and longaniza sausage is the way to go. Open for dinner as well, we suggest the mussels. Facebook Page.
Operated out of a recycled bright yellow shipping container, Chef Mario Ormaza, who has worked with legends like Jean-Georges Vongerichten, has created a spot known for good fried food and fish snacks including the popular battered fish tacos. Other options to try include empanadillas stuffed with crab, lobster, octopus or chicken, marlin skewers, tostones de pana (breadfruit tostones). The vibe at Tresbe is completely relaxed, so grab a seat on the shaded deck, order a Medalla beer, and snack away. Facebook Page.
A chalkboard on the wall of this Old San Juan standout explains the ideology for this cozy, rustic, French country-inspired spot: “Our kitchen’s purpose is to rescue the indigenous tropical ingredients, fresh fish, and local vegetables from the garden of our farmers, challenging the scarcity of farming and fishing.” With that in mind, the menu changes daily, depending on availability, however year-round highlights from chef Gabriel Hernandez’ kitchen such as the Verde Mesa house rice and pigeon pea hummus shouldn’t be missed. Reservations aren’t accepted, so be prepared for a wait, but drown your impatience in the many featured rum infusion cocktails to pass the time quickly. Facebook Page.
Located diagonally from José Enrique off the bustling Placita, this divey spot is an homage to the country’s national snack: la alcapurría, a fritter made of green bananas and yautia (taro root) and stuffed with meat or crab. In addition to the beloved fritter, the limited menu changes daily but dishes like rabbit stew, piñon (beef and plantain dish resembling lasagna), and arroz con tocino (rice with salt pork) are usually on the menu. Owned by same folks responsible for Puerto Rico’s most famous bar, La Factoría, drinks here are simple, but important. Think Don Q with toronja (grapefruit), whiskey with coconut, and a pretty good old-fashioned. Facebook Page.
Argentine chef and owner Martin Louzao has a winner in Cocina Abierta, a relative newcomer to the San Juan food scene after a four-year run in Guaynabo. With an affiliated atelier cooking school where local chefs interchangeably teach courses, the pan-Latin restaurant led by Louzao is an interactive experience for diners. The menu is divided into four sections of small plates that emphasize vegetables, fish, poultry, and other meats, respectively. Diners mix and match their favorite items in each category to create their most memorable tasting. From Peruvian causas to Spanish fideua to Caribbean seafood stew, to plantain carpaccio, at this cocina abierta, or open-air kitchen, guest whim is at the forefront. cocinaabierta.com.
Pagan, a worldwide ambassador for Puerto Rican cuisine, has been a driving force in the growth of the island’s fine dining scene. With eponymous Mario Pagan, his latest opening, he continues to take Puerto Rican staples and creatively manipulate them into memorable (and delicious) dishes. His pig ear mofongo, a playful interpretation of the island’s national dish is a standout, as are the dirty rice with morcilla and sea bass over yuca mash in a foie gras and truffle sauce. Pagan has another spot, a modern steakhouse, nearby at Condado’s Olive Boutique Hotel (see below). Facebook Page.
Just craving a steak? Mario Pagan’s other restaurant in Condado, Sage Steak Loft, is a modern steakhouse set on the bottom floor of the swank Olive Boutique Hotel. The room, which uses light woods, rope and metal to stylish, chic effect, is an elegant space where playful interpretations of steakhouse classics take center stage. Start with pork belly sliders and veal parm croquettes, move onto an oyster Caesar salad, and then choose from a variety of cuts including a Waygu tomahawk for two. On the side? The blue yuca gnocchi gets our vote. After dinner, retire to Olive’s sexy rooftop for a nightcap. http://oliveboutiquehotel.com/sage-steak-loft
Part wine cellar, part Spanish restaurant, Bodegas Compostela has been serving a high-end clientele interested in classic Spanish cooking since 1982. Though the restaurant was known for typical Galician fare when it opened, owners Maximino Rey and José Rey (no relation), both from small towns near Santiago de Compostela, moved to a lighter tapas concept and unveiled a more sleek, modern renovation a few years back to better focus on the wines and wine-food pairings. Facebook Page.
Spanish bakeries abound in San Juan. The most beloved is Ocean Park’s Kasalta, which has hosted President Obama for lunch in the past (look for the plaque commemorating this visit), and offers much more than pan dulce and sweets. There are two sides of Kasalta; one serves tapas — albondigas, chorizo, croquetas — and more hearty Spanish-inspired dishes including paella, while the other sells over-the-counter Cubanos, soups like caldo gallego (Galician bean) and sancocho (meat and veggie stew), pastries including quesitos (cheese in puff pastry), and desserts like tembleque, arroz con leche and flan. Shoppers can also purchase Spanish staples including an assortment of olives, Manchego cheese, and requisite Serrano ham. kasalta.com.
Intimate and dimly-lit, Gallo Negro has a pop-up feel though it is solidly ensconced in Santurce. A young crowd prefers the bar, as they should—the cocktails are excellent. The menu changes often, and is all over the map, so don’t be surprised to find pho, tacos and tandoori on the same page—just as well executed as locally-influenced dishes like stewed oxtail with yautia. It’s a go-to spot for happy hour for share plates and a competitive seat at brunch. Facebook Page. — Kathleen Squires
Located in the city’s up-and-coming gastronomic hub of Miramar, this cool, casual Argentine spot is a hit with locals and visitors alike. Simple in design, it’s a great spot for chivito and choripan sandwiches and lunch salads by day. At night, homemade pastas like gnocchi, risotto and fettucine are on display, as well as an asado plate and a hearty bife. Facebook Page.
Do you just need a taco fix? Luckily this small taquería has you covered. Serving a real deal assortment of Mexican classics (think: al pastor, cochinita pibil, barbacoa, lengua), an entry sign let’s you know that anything resembling Tex-Mex is not available or tolerated. Authentic, corn tortillas are made fresh daily, as are hot sauces, and the pork al pastor deepens in flavor with each turn of the spit. Wash it all down with any of the featured Mexican drink specialties — from agua frescas to horchatas, margaritas to micheladas. If Mexican breakfast is more your speed, brunch is served on Sundays. Facebook Page.
A local staple for the comida criolla that the island is known for, this Santurce spot’s cozy, cluttered decor is evocative of a long-lost relative’s living quarters with wacky, plastic tablecloths, a decorated, corner Christmas tree, and mismatched flower pots decorating the space. Get past the kitsch and enjoy board-written favorites including bacalaitos (cod fritters), carne guisada (beef stew), crab salmorejo (stewed crab), asopao (chicken rice soup) and tostones. If patitas con garbanzos (pig’s feet with chickpeas) is one of the daily specials, it’s not to be missed. Facebook Page.
One of the standout options in Old San Juan, Peter Schintler’s fine-dining restaurant draws consistent raves for its spot-on service and inventive plates. The U.S. born chef marches to the beat of his own drum, using French technique to put new spins on dishes such as sea bass served with persimmon, lime, and coconut or harissa-spiced mussels. Build your own tasting menu or choose ala carte options, just arrive a few minutes early to enjoy a drink at the restaurant’s chic bar before your meal. marmaladepr.com.
Header image courtesy of Jose Enrique.